The Gastronomic Pub Crawl of North Melbourne:
The Leveson Hotel
Russell Degnan

46 Leveson St. North Melbourne
(Leveson Street, south of Queensberry Street)

I've never been quite sure what to make of the Leveson and I still aren't. Formerly the El Dorado, it has some enormous spaces. Room for 350 people upstairs, a huge backroom and restaurant area, and an odd front bar with not quite comfortable seats, and open fire and vast open spaces. This means it lacks the intimacy of a pub, and it has far more light than a pub emphasising the upper-class restaurant nature of their weekly business. At the same time though, I have never seen it packed, and rarely jumping, so the open space seems empty and a little soulless.

The welcome was very friendly though, if garrulous, and we were shortly convinced to try the parmas on the barman's recommendation. I can say, that despite the prices being a bit above most other pubs, that the recommendation was quite correct. This was an outstanding parma: nice salad, great chips, and a solid chunk of good chicken. Service was quick, and even a little fussy, which is a good indication that this isn't a bad place for a real meal. Interesting place.

The short: Neither pub, nor bar, nor restaurant, but with elements of each.

Next week: The Three Crowns Hotel (Corner of Victoria and Errol Streets).

Melbourne Town 28th August, 2005 11:49:40   [#]